Hubby has just bought me in the first of this season's asparagus so I thought I would share some hints and tips with you. ENJOY!!
There are reports of "wild" fields of asparagus (fields that were established then forgotten when people either died or moved away) that were producing in the 1950's and are still producing good quantities of spears today even though they have not been looked after since the 1960's Find out more about this perennial vegetable. Click here for .pdf file.
HOW TO HANDLE SLATERS.
• Make traps from hollowed out orange halves or seedling punnets filled with potato peelings, to distract slaters from seedlings, and germinating seeds.
• For seedlings, try plant collars (old pots with the bottom chopped out) for the first couple of weeks, or pot on seedlings to establish them before planting out. Once the stems become tougher, they're less attractive to slaters.
• Iron chelate based snail pellets are also effective against slaters and, as they break down, they release iron to feed the plants. They're safer than traditional snail pellets for use around pets, children, and wildlife but they should be stored and used with caution and common sense.
• In larger gardens, rotating chooks over veggie beds in between crops is a great way to clear up infestation and provide your birds with protein.
• A sprinkle of diatomaceous earth will get into their exoskeleton and destroy them also.
• And let us not forget chooks, ducks and quail wonderful insect control from these creatures not to mention what they give back to us, eggs and manure.
Last but not least this is not my recipe it comes from another website but it so makes sense I am including it.
Slug Snail and Slater Trap
• Grab an old sour cream container or anything that will hold some liquid. Dig a hole in the garden where you are planting your seedlings, put container in the hole, put two tablespoons of plain yoghurt/sour cream in
• Pour half a cup of water (hot water in cold weather) into the container
• Stir the yoghurt/sour cream until it is mixed.
• Leave for a week to do its job.
• If you have a pet you might want to put some chook or parrot wire over the top and tuck it down the sides, it's not poisonous but it stinks after a week and dogs tend to put there nose in it.
• After a week tips, the container out (it's about this time when you want to hold your breath, it stinks) and you will see sometimes hundreds of slaters.
• After you tip it out just cover with some soil, the worms will love it.
Many gardeners pass up growing potatoes because they think they do not have enough room to grow these vigorous plants. The good news is, if you have room for a hay bale, you can grow potatoes in your own backyard with little effort.
Position the hay bales in an area that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight a day. Full day sun is preferred. Because the potatoes grow inside the hay bale, the bale can be positioned in areas where the soil is unsuitable for gardening or even on top of paved areas. However, water does drain from the bottom of the bale, so choose an area where this is not an issue.
Prep the Bales
Saturate the hay or straw bales with water until it runs freely from the bottom of the bale. Repeat this procedure on days two and three. On the fourth day, sprinkle 1 cup of bone meal over the top of the bales and water thoroughly. Repeat the procedure for days five and six. On days seven, eight and nine, reduce the bone meal to ½ cup and water as usual. On day ten, sprinkle the bales with ½ to 1 cup of 10-10-10 fertilizer and water thoroughly. This speeds the decomposition process inside the hay bale and creates rich compost for growing.
Check the Bales
Make holes in the hay bale by gently pulling the layers of hay open. Check that the inside of the bale is warm, but not hot. During decomposition, the insides heat as they begin to break down, but it should have cooled off by day 10. If the center feels hot to the touch, wait another day or two before planting the potatoes
Plant the Potatoes
Cut the potatoes in two or more sections with at least two eyes on each section. Place the cut potatoes inside the bale to a depth of 250 mm spaced 150 – 300 mm apart along the hay bale. Typically, four potato plants fit in one bale. Close the hay over the potatoes.
Water thoroughly until water runs freely from the bottom of the hay bale. The hay bales must be kept moist and may require daily watering. Running a soaker hose over the top or filling milk cartons with water and punching small holes in the bottom for water to drip onto the bales works well.
Apply water-soluble fertilizer designed for garden vegetables once a week. Because nutrients leach from the bottom of the hay bale, regular fertilizer is necessary to provide growing potato plants with the nutrients they need.
Check for "new potatoes" once the potato plants bloom. Gently pull back the layers of hay and harvest young potatoes. Close the layers and allow small potatoes to continue to grow. Harvest mature potatoes in the fall once foliage dies back.
Potatoes grown in hay bales a clean and free of soil, but the best part is the ability to harvest tender new potatoes as soon as they "set on" without disturbing the roots of the plants.
All in one handy file. How to grow, when to grow seed types and seed raising mix
Some information you may find handy when trying to choose between the use of Crusher Dust and Volcanic Rock Dust. Read on..........